8/11.2013: we get a late start. Show in Missoula apparently fell through. But we get a call at 2:15. "Can we make it?" "If you drive now." We make it to Spokane by 6pm having averaged a driving speed of 85 miles per hour, under the anxieties of a van with 195,000 miles with a possible slipping transmission. 4 hours later we're in Missoula MT. -drive time: about 7 hours, roughly 476 miles travelled from seattle to Missoula
8/12: Jason wakes me up
at 5:20am. "We need to get up. We have a 14 hour drive to Fargo." Muster the troops. I brush my teeth in the kitchen sink. The sun isn't even out. The house we are staying at is pleasant and filled with nick nacks. Stuff that must have taken the person years to accumulate, the kind of lived in house that takes the work of a long relationship, and I remember the guy we're staying with is recently divorced. there are band momentos on the wall: total fest posters, a Missoula Montana fest. notes on the fridge, "thanks for letting us stay. The lighting is pleasant.
-van is not starting
at 5:40. The sun is not out. Fuel pump? At any rate, the 850 bucks we've put into the break system, and anxiety about the transmission dropping, hasn't prepared us for this.
We use the CC to re-up Jason's tripleA. New CC balance: 56.34
-van gets towed, we settle with some correspondence with tow truck guy, on Midas. Tow truck guy drives us to Denny's. Jason and I eat grand slam breakfasts. Surrounded by old people
at 7am.
9:15: while the van is waiting to be looked at, Jason and I sleep in a public park.
-hours of sleep: 1-2. Jason sleeps like his body has been prepared for funeral. In moments is snoring. I wonder, does he need some sunblock eventually?
-100$ and a 24 hour drive to Milwaukee since we missed our Fargo show
We have to spend 900 bucks to get the fuel pump replaced.
We spend the remainder of the evening, from
6pm driving from Missoula to the destination which is now Milwaukee, WI. We ride all through the night chasing thunder storms.
8.13.2013, 5PM
The funny thing about this "stunning shot" of pastoral Wisconsin, complete with "rolling hills" of green grass, corn, and blue sky, is what you'd see if you inverted the lens.
We have been in the van for nearly 24 hours straight, this new trajectory the result of a series of unfortunate circumstances. We will have taken multiple turns at the wheel while the rest of us attempt sleep, which in this van is a delicate act of body contortion. Towards the beginning of the trip there were futile attempts on my part to organize space in what little space we have, but by this point, the cabin of the vehicle is strewn with personal belongings and the junk of gas station food, drink, and plenty of other random objects with their own stories to tell.
But it is not as bad as it sounds.
This space represents the collective, unspoken resignation on our part, to let the mess take its natural course. It is the manifestation of physical and mental fatigue sprawled out unapologetically within the confines of a traveling space. It is a lived in mobile house, capable of traveling a vast amount of space. And similarly, in times of duress, it is a point of centeredness and calm.
9:30PM: The weather is surprisingly cool in Milwaukee. The show is in a basement. Some kids drinking out of a bottle of wine. Some people look like someone you know back home and this reminds me that even throughout regions, Americans always have more in common than we think. But half the excitement of traveling is finding those subtle cultural novelties that makes us all different.
The place where the drums should go is soaking wet. Maybe 20 people under a yellow light. After we play I'm covered in sweat. Ears ringing.
"Hello, we're the exquisites. We just drove about 26 hours to get to this show on time. We're going to play for you now." 15 minutes and some absolution later. Done.
"What interesting facts can you tell me about Milwaukee?"
"This is the city where Geofrey Domner lived."
"Oh wow."
8.14.2013: roughly 7 hours and 23 minutes of drive time. 453 miles from Milwaukee Wisconsin to Columbus Ohio. The route takes a southern dip past Lake Michigan.
In Columbus we play to a decent crowd, at a cute bar with good sound. We hope to sell records and shirts to help chip away at our debt but nobody buys anything. When all is said and done we stay out our friends Austin and...stealing a rare moment for peacefulness and rest.
8.15.2013 Our drive from Columbus Ohio to Oaklyn New Jersey will take us through a part of West Virginia and the state of Pennsylvania. 536 miles of corn fields and farms and beautiful green wildnerness that is confusingly nothing like the familiar conifers of the Pacific Northwest.
Even with the best intentions of making the nine hour drive productive, it's hard not to succumb to the traveling-in-a-van-specific-fatigue, that is not unlike the feeling one gets on a long airplane ride.
We arrive at the show which is nestled in a neighborhood in Oaklyn, New Jersey, right next to a Pizza shop. In the houses surrounding the practice space where the show will be, people have electric candles in their windows.
8.16.2013 Philadelphia, PA
We wake up in Philladelphia Pennsylvania, putting an end to the first leg of our grueling travel regimen, having spent nearly 64 hours in a van.
We're lucking enough to be staying at a place called Big Mamas house, the premier punk-warehouse-complex in Philly, apparently named for the crew who stayed at the warehouse while filming the Martin Lawrence comedy. In a past life the building may have been a disco-tech, but now it houses 10 people, a funny pit bull with a licking obsession, a screen printing studio, a recording studio, and a mess of nostalgia-enducing junk; cultural artifacts from a time past that strike some emotional resonance with the people who live here. Every corner of the warehouse is filled with a cacophony of randomness and art. A rope swing hangs from a support beam in the middle of the warehouse. A massive dream catcher with severed manakin limbs tied and dangling to it, hangs from the ceiling. There are rickety stairs that lead up to, what can only be described as a miniature one bedroom cabin, a living-quarter-within-a-livinng quarter Mise en Abyme. Though he is away at our visit, Greg, who operates the screen printing studio, maintains a striking visual presence in the space, his signature sand dollar-esque symbol, printed on brightly colored tie-died shirts for sale, or painted on various objects, or strewn about on tiny brightly colored construction paper. Some momentos strike a nostalgic chord somewhere in me, conjuring up dimly lit memories of child hood that flicker and struggle to come back to life. I imagine that the people in this space, keep all of this stuff around for that very same reason. The conjuring up of a bygone happiness that they never want to forget. Recycled would be a grave understatement. All of this stuff or junk, once labeled obsolete, finds second life in this space. So strange to think of the meaning we place in objects.
Kat, our gracious host, makes us tacos, or really, a kitchen sink blend of nutritious food slabbed on a tortilla. After a steady diet of gas station food we are eternally grateful for the sustenance and hospitality. Herein, lies a staple of the D.I.Y. punk ethos. The meal is a great focal point in which to exchange meaningful correspondence.
The warehouse is in sweltering heat making it hard to sleep.
The next day we explore the area surrounding the warehouse.
On the way to the show we smell radiator fluid, the first telltale signs of an overheating vehicle. The temp begins to spike into uncomfortable range, risking warped head gaskets and other terrible stuff.
9PM: we play a house show with an all girl band from Vancouver Canada. Because of entertainment/merchandizing laws in Canada, getting musical gear in and over the Canadian/U.S. border is infamously hard. They couldn't get there gear to the states, so they devise the genius plan of buying cheap instruments at guitar center, and returning them before they get home.
8.17.2013 Phillidelphia Penselvania
Jason and I wake up early to remedy the theoretical overheating problems with the van. We need to go to a Home Depot in order to buy a large enough screw driver with enough torque in order to remove the screws from the doghouse. Smart phone directions take us to a vacant lot in front of a derelict building somewhere in northeast Philly?
The streets in Philladelphia seem smaller and compact and apartments are boxed atop each other. On this Saturday blocks are filled with people barbecuing right on the sidewalks. In the neighborhood we're in, busy colored streamers hang over the streets from apartment to apartment. The streets are littered and from some places there is the fetid smell of sewage. A dead pigeon in the road. The temprature of the city must be made hotter by all of the concrete. The trash is a thing I notice. Trash litters the street, not as if someone has recently knocked over a garbage can, but trash that is old and settles indiscrimately into the cracks and periphery of life on the city block. There is the fetid smell of sewage and grime.
Here are Jason and I parked on the corner of a busy street somewhere in Northeast Philly in a sweltering heat, trying to remove the the screws from the doghouse in order to find a theoretical leak in the coolant system. We buy a screw driver from an auto-parts store with enough torque in order to loosen the
screws that attach the doghouse, but through sweaty hands and frustration can't get the screws loose. An arguement as to the relevancy of taking the doghouse off or whether we should just spend some of our diminishing funds in order to just get the van checked out professionally, erupts into a heat induced exchange of terse profanities, manifesting in a temporary rage that Jason channels into the screw driver and the doghouse is freed, and the both of us forget our anger. But, with the doghouse off, the naked engine doesn't reveal any clues.
Plan B is a diagnostic from any auto mechanic, the route that anyone with a reasonable income or cushion of cash would consider, but not us. Not us poor musicians. Sometimes not having options puts you in places of taking things apart, and i keep trying to tell myself that even if its just a doghouse, and even if taking it apart was useless, at least we're learning and trying.
2pm: Self diagnostics is a waste of time. We drive around the block for a bit looking for a mechanic.
"It's pretty dangerous driving without the doghouse on."
"Is it?"
"Yeah, I mean, if the engine explodes our legs will catch on fire."
"Yeah that's scary."
"We should roll down the windows too so we don't get carbon monoxide poisoning."
"Yeah that's a good idea."
On the block, we find two men sitting in plastic lawn chairs in front of a narrow and dark garage filled with tools to work on vehicles. (This is obviously a business, but maybe they don't use plastic and a good majority of this work is done under the counter, who knows.) We have no money and nothing to lose. The men are nice. With a cigarette in one hand, one of the men jacks up the van which is Angled kind of goofy between the curb and street. But no difference to him, he sticks his head under.
"Not good," he says. "Not good. Coolant is leaking out of the head gasket," he's on the ground still, showing us a diagram that he is making with his two hands.
"It's leaking out though. Is the radiator fluid milky white, or the oil?" No? Then you you might have some time. Buy some head gasket sealant and see what happens."
The man is incredibly friendly through broken English, and smiles showing a couple of dense, worn down chompers.
"How much do we owe you."
"Lets see. Five dollars." I lie and say that all I have is a ten and give them ten. Jason has this funny thing of letting this east coast hard guy accent slip out when we're talking to mechanics, even though we're from the west coast.
A head gasket problem is the worst news, but we have no other options but to buy the sealant. 35$.
We stop for delicious sandwiches. (Should you include this part of the story? Is any of it relevant?)
-the first signs of tension are brewing among band mates at this point. People can't eat and are pissed at each other and trying to maintain civility even though all of us are getting frustrated.
***The newest signs of Jason's mysterious allergic reactions over the last six months began to manifest as redness and puffiness around his eyes making him short tempered and irritable, and if you were to ask him he would rub his eyes, and say, "it just makes me feel like I'm going crazy."
5pm: Tensions and frustrations travel between people sometimes before they leave the world. We are successfully irritated with the situation and each other. Jason is showing the first budding signs of a stress induced breakdown. I hold a heavy guilt about the van falling apart, and I'm insecure about this which I try and channel to Taylor in passive aggressive ways. While the van is circulating gasket sealant in front of the warehouse, Dan and I dig at each other a bit.
All of this culminates in a silent van ride to Bethlehem, New Jersey. Roughly 1 hour and 33 minutes. About 80 miles.
We arrive in Bethlehem around 7pm. The city seems green, lush, and fresh. Muggy but the heat is not assaulting. Maybe all of this is contrasted more by the grittiness of Philladelphia. Bethlehem must have been a steel town in the past? Whatever the massive complex of industrial era buildings was, is now a casino. Strange. Our casinos back home represent the capitalization of some wild time past, of American Indian, and this east coast casino represents something post colonial industrial failure now revitalized by a gambling economy.
The house we're playing is set on the side of a mountain or something. A cute house, with a young family who put shows on in their basement. Where I'm from property that overlooks the city, houses multi million dollar homes, but from the look of it, at least in this part of the city, the houses still hold the elure of accessible homeliness, that is affordable and cheap. When the sun sets people start collecting in the front yard under streamers of white Christmas tree lights, smoking cigarettes. From anywhere on the mountainside you can look down on the red "Sans" casino sign that dominates the rest of the tiny glowing cityscape.
Like most basements, the height cramps your sense of personal space. Musty water smell and spidery corners, illuminated by a too-bright white light hanging from a string.
A kid from centralia plays folk songs with an adopted southern twang, even though he's from Centralia, Washington. Waxing about ridesharing across country on an acoustic guitar, is to a folk artistic traveling by boxcar in the 50s. (Develope idea further. Is this portion of the story necessary or does it derail any of the rising suspense or forward motion of the story?)
We play a deafening 15 minute set to the chagrin of the 15 people who are drunk on wine and pleasant acoustic tunes. it may be rough. I don't realize it at first, but the humidity keeps me constanly saturated with sweat.
Jason's mood is steadily deteriating. At the end of the evening he is withdrawn to himself. The four of us split ways, with Taylor, Dan, and I riding with some people downtown. In some bars in Pennsylvania you can still smoke inside.
We stay the night with the family who put on the show in their basement, with the only stipulation that we leave for awhile in the morning because they are trying to adopt a cat.
8.18.2013 Bethlehem, Pennsylvania to New Brunswick, New Jersey.
We drive to get some food at some food metropolis on the end of Bethlehem. Jason tells me that he feels like he's gonna have a nervous breakdown.
Drive time is 62 miles, one hour and seventeen minutes, to New Brunswick. We arrive around 3pm with time to walk around downtown New Brunswick. Jason stays in the van.
New Brunswick is a college town. Rutgers University. One of nine pre 1776 independence Universities. The city is a strange blend of college atmosphere and poverty. On this day the sky is grey and the whole cityscape seems devoid of any color, save the greys of concrete and the university themed burgundy red that makes its way into the streets like dried blood. It's a Sunday. The city is empty making getting something to eat frustrating. At one point I break off from Taylor and Dan, to catch up on some homework. I eat at a terrible burger place and feel sick and decide I'm in no mental state to write succinctly. So instead I amble around a grassy Noel somewhere on the Rutgers campus, and watch people come out of cathedrals.
Our shows are developing a similar theme. A straight line that doesn't deviate outside of a few people with very little merchandise sold for us to sustain ourselves, sustain ourselves meaning the ability to pay off some debt and get out of the financial red. We've seen a lot of basements this tour round. Literally. We've played in a lot of basements. This is a basement. With the white light on a string, that cool damp and mildewy smell. This classic basement atmosphere mixes with the body heat of people already effected by the summertime humidity. The basement is set up so A pair of stairs acts as a barrier between the band and the few people watching, so these people mainly stand to the left and towards the back of the basement, so the band is forced to play to a large inaccessible empty space.
When we start, half of the people at the show, are still standing outside smoking or mingling. This can't be taken personally, although its hard to play with this in mind, when you drive three thousand miles across the country. But you try. You try. This is not unlike trying to deny you're having bad sex but following through with it once you've begun. I think some people are leaving while we play. A couple of girls are gracious to stand close enough to us with a look of despondency that could mean anything even if you overanalyze their facial expressions.
(Break)
The skin around Jason's eyes continues to swell and puff up. In vain, Jason takes little pink pills of benadril.
8.19.2013 New Brunswick, New Jersey to New York
55 minutes. 38 miles from New Brunswick, NJ to New York City.
Literally right outside the Holland tunnel the van starts to overheat. We pull over. We've done this before. Troubleshoot. Run through all possibilities and ways to fix the problem. First the van needs to cool down so we can open the radiator cap. I climb up a grassy hill that looks over the parts of New Jersey and New York that are bisected by the New Jersey River, and down on the Holland Tunnel. A ground hog pokes his head out to stare at me.
The van may need to be burped we are told from a reliable source. This requires parking on a slight incline and pouring coolant into the radiator with the radiator cap off while the engine revs. We drive around a Jersey neighborhood that is close to the tunnel, to test drive to see if the van will overheat.
The tunnel is a beautiful thing to get through. It's around 3pm. Jason decides that it's time to stop guessing about the ailment and to go to the doctor. But not having insurance is a tricky venture. We drop him off at the Brooklyn Hospital and head to the show. Driving a van pregnant with musical gear through Brooklyn is exhilarating. We manage to cross the Williamsburg Bridge in the wrong direction, to the right address, but in the wrong part of the city, and have to cross back into Brooklyn.
The pizza bar where we are playing is on the riverfront in Williamsburg. We have to get clever about loading gear into a bar that has no parking, requiring parking in a bus zone while we load all of our gear to the sidewalk, while someone reparks the van, two of us taking turns spotting the sidewalked gear while the other loads stuff into the club.
After some reciprocated irritation on who's gear we are using, the young punky sound guy reminds me that we've been put on this show last minute, and that he is "doing us a favor."
(Break)
At this bar you get a free personal pizza when you buy a beer.
I'm corresponding with Jason who has been at the hospital for four hours without being seen by a doctor and is not happy, to say lightly. I have a narrow window of time to pick him up at the hospital before we play, whether he's been seen by a doctor or not.
There are a good amount of people at this bar regardless of who they are here to see. The atmosphere is opposite of a basement. Even when the band that people came to see plays, there is not a focal point in the space, just the steady din of personal conversation and washed out comotive sound. So, the crowd does not direct their collective attention to the stage in excitement and aww, and this has to be a humbling experience whether we like it or not, because we still have to play.
After we play Jason takes the subway to the Beth Israel Heart in Manhattan in hopes of a speedier medical diagnostic. We are left to negotiate money.
The sound guy plays drums in the last band, with a shit eating grin, and I watch from the front mean mugging him for no other reason than our terse exchange of words earlier in the night. When his band is done playing, I pop on stage and extend a heavy hand on his shoulder filling every word in this sentence with unnecessary emphasis towards exultation.
"Thank you so much for the favor and letting us play."
He looks at me with a tinge of anger and confusion and responds, "are you being sarcastic?" And I say "no, of course not" with the same razor sharp focus. "Of course not," stepping off the stage without breaking eye contact with him. Oh well, we won't know each other in the morning.
We say our thanks and goodbyes, and I make sure to stare at the sound guy outside.
1AM. Jason is still in the Emergency room. Taylor and I resolve to stay up all night since we're in New York City, and we will need to pick up Jason eventually. We drop Dan off at a friends house and head over to the suggested Brunswick Country club. Outside the club, a local man intoxicated in shorts, flip flops, a ball cap, and a red hawaiin shirt that is un buttoned revealing a tuft of wiry brown and grey hair, offers us some insider knowledge of places to check out in the neighborhood. And coke. And quaaludes. And we're on our way to another hip destination having politely declined on the party goods.
Its 3AM. We end up at a bar with a taco truck in their patio area. For some reason the taco truck reminds me of the ship in the jungle in 100 years of solitude. streams of lights hang from a tree to the patios surrounding the taco truck to the taco truck itself, casting everyone in a comforting yellow light. drunk people everywhere with rosy flushed cheeks smoking cigarettes, leaning on each other and squeezing the last bit of cut loose out of the morning hour. I want a glass of water but a couple makes out too closely and I don't want to interrupt them. We order at the taco truck from two cooks, who seem to stand imposingly over us. They both cook and take orders with an earbud in one ear, and I can't figure out if they're listening to music or talking shit about all the drunk idiots over a closed circuit. I ask for hot sauce, and the cook squirts bright red sauce on my plate, and I ask for more, and he gives me a look like, I don't think you know how hot this is, but I couldn't care less because its three in the morning on a Tuesday and I've made food for too many drunk idiots. You could be offended with their complete lack of enthusiasm, but you can't blame them, and the honesty in their faces is refreshing.
4AM. We pick Jason up in Manhattan at a CVC who is picking up a prescription for steroids. If you ask him he will tell you of a speedy and thorough doctor exam at Beth Israel Heart. Like a television drama. With a benadril drip and electrodes. They eliminate the possibility of any viral or bacterial infection since his eyes are equally swollen. They suggest getting an epi-pen for $300 dollars, a device that will shoot adrenaline into Jason's system should the allergic reaction cause Jason's airways to close shut. They cannot provide a definitive answer as to what is causing the allergic reaction and suggest that Jason see an allergist when we get home.
We sit in the van somewhere in Manhattan. It's almost 5AM. Jason loopy and exhausted off of benadril drip. We missed the window of opportunity for a couple of friends who offered us a place to stay, and are looking at the reality of sleeping in the van for an hour or two until we're pushed away by city workers or the police.
5AM. A friend answers an early morning request for a place to stay, and we end up in Bushwick sleeping on the floor of an apartment. The humidity forces me to bypass my humility in asking to take a shower. I definitely don't ask for a towel, and wipe my body off with my dirty laundry.
8.20.2013 New York City to New Haven.
I wake up covered in sweat around 10AM.
8.21.2013 New Haven, Connecticut
8.22. 2013. Day off.
8.23.2013: drive day.